Episode 5: The South of France on a Rhone River Cruise

Host Lynn Elmhirst sails aboard the Emerald Liberte on France’s Rhone River, passing through three famous wine regions, and experiencing over 2000 years of history. She discovers renowned wines and wineries, sails past chateaux and vineyards, tastes of famous local delicacies, and burns off some of the gastronomic indulgence with vineyard hikes and e-cycling along the river banks and into medieval villages of one of the most picturesque regions of France. 

 

The Ship: Emerald Liberté — A Floating Jewel of Southern France

The Emerald Liberté glides along the Rhône and Saône Rivers like a sleek brushstroke of silver on watercolor landscapes. Designed to capture the essence of southern France—its light, its flavors, its leisurely rhythm—the ship embodies contemporary elegance without pretension.

Carrying just 132 guests, Emerald Liberté offers an intimate, club-like atmosphere where service feels personal and spaces feel open. The interior design draws inspiration from Provençal sophistication: soft greys and whites accented by lavender tones, brushed metals, and natural textures that mirror the region’s effortless beauty.

One of its most striking features is the indoor-outdoor pool area, which transforms into a cinema by night—a thoughtful touch that allows guests to unwind after a day of sightseeing. Up top, the Sun Deck offers panoramic views of vineyards, hilltop villages, and golden sunsets—a perfect setting for an afternoon glass of Côtes du Rhône.

Cabins are bright and cleverly designed, featuring Emerald’s signature floor-to-ceiling windows that drop down to form an open-air balcony at the touch of a button. Dining aboard is a celebration of French gastronomy—locally sourced cheeses, seasonal vegetables, and fine regional wines accompany every meal. The Chef’s Table experience highlights the best of Provençal cuisine, from duck confit to tarte Tatin.

Emerald Liberté isn’t about grand opulence but about grace. It’s a ship that understands the French art de vivre: a slower pace, a beautiful view, and a table filled with good food and conversation. Cruising aboard it feels less like travel and more like slipping into the rhythm of the Rhône itself—steady, sunlit, and endlessly elegant.

The Cruise Line: Emerald Cruises — Where Boutique Style Meets River Sophistication 

Emerald Cruises has built its reputation on creating river journeys that blend modern comfort with genuine discovery. It’s the perfect line for travelers who seek a refined, contemporary experience—luxury that feels relaxed, never rigid.

Emerald’s philosophy is smart luxury: everything you need, nothing you don’t. That means panoramic suites instead of over-the-top palaces, regionally inspired dining instead of generic buffets, and excursions that feel authentic rather than formulaic. The result is a cruise that feels personal and connected to place.

Emerald guests tend to be curious, cultured travelers who appreciate a balance of guided exploration and independent discovery. They value comfort, but they also crave immersion—wandering through medieval towns, cycling through vineyards, or joining a cooking class in Lyon.

The line’s attentive yet unpretentious service is another highlight. The crew knows guests by name, and there’s an easy camaraderie that develops onboard. Daily excursions are thoughtfully curated, ranging from wine tastings and market visits to guided hikes in the hills above the river.

Emerald Cruises strikes a sweet spot between contemporary design and classic European charm. For those who want to experience the romance of river cruising without the stiffness of traditional luxury lines, Emerald is the answer—a fresh, youthful approach to refined travel.

The Rhône River: France’s Golden Waterway 

Flowing from the Swiss Alps through Provence to the Mediterranean, the Rhône River is southern France’s lifeblood—a sunlit corridor that has carried traders, poets, and dreamers for over two millennia. It’s a river of contrasts: rugged in the north, serene and golden in the south, lined with vineyards, Roman ruins, and olive groves.

As the Emerald Liberté follows its course, guests are treated to a panorama of quintessential France—Avignon’s Papal Palace, Arles’ Roman amphitheater, and the lavender fields of Provence. Each bend in the river tells a story, from the Romans who once navigated its waters to the artists who immortalized its light.

Cruising the Rhône is a sensory experience: the scent of thyme on the wind, the taste of crisp rosé, and the warm hum of cicadas in the afternoon sun. It’s France distilled into a single, shimmering journey.

 

The Saône River: Gentle Soul of Burgundy 

The Saône River flows more quietly than the Rhône, winding its way through Burgundy’s rolling hills and storybook villages. It’s a river of reflection—literally and figuratively—mirroring both the changing skies and the slower rhythm of rural France.

For travelers, the Saône offers a window into the French countryside few ever see. Along its banks, towns like Mâcon and Tournus invite leisurely exploration, with cobblestone streets, Sunday markets, and sun-dappled cafés. Vineyards stretch across the hillsides, producing some of the world’s finest wines, and life here seems beautifully unhurried.

Sailing the Saône aboard Emerald Liberté feels like slipping into a painting by Pissarro or Monet. It’s about savoring the quiet moments between grand adventures—the glint of sunlight on water, the sound of church bells, and the scent of freshly baked bread drifting from a riverside village.

The Wine Regions of the Rhône and Saône 

No journey through southern France would be complete without a nod to its wine regions, many of which owe their fame to the Rhône and Saône Rivers. These waterways have shaped not just the landscape, but also the flavor and identity of French viticulture.

Along the Rhône Valley, vines cling to terraced hillsides in appellations like Côte Rôtie, Hermitage, and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The wines are bold, aromatic, and sun-soaked—perfect reflections of their terrain. In contrast, the Burgundy region, nourished by the Saône, produces elegant Pinot Noirs and ethereal Chardonnays, wines of subtlety and grace.

Emerald Cruises often includes vineyard excursions, allowing guests to meet winemakers and sample vintages in ancient cellars. Whether sipping a Syrah overlooking the Rhône or a crisp Chablis by the Saône, each glass tells a story of soil, sunlight, and centuries of craftsmanship.

To cruise these rivers is to float through the heart of French wine country—a living, tasting journey through terroir, tradition, and timeless pleasure.

 

Ports of Call: Lyon, Avignon, and Arles 

Lyon, France — Culinary Capital and Historic Heart

Lyon, often hailed as France’s culinary capital, is a city that delights the senses at every turn. The moment you step into its old town, Vieux Lyon, you’re transported through narrow cobblestone streets lined with Renaissance façades. Hidden passageways called traboules invite exploration, revealing secret courtyards and glimpses of centuries-old architecture. Each turn in the labyrinthine streets is a journey into history, blending medieval charm with modern vibrancy.

Food is at the heart of Lyon. Traditional bouchons serve local specialties like quenelles — delicate fish dumplings in creamy sauces — and rich praline tarts that melt in your mouth. Cheese shops, patisseries, and markets showcase the bounty of the Rhône-Alpes region, from silky Saint-Marcellin to earthy charcuterie. For those seeking hands-on experiences, cooking classes and food tours offer insider perspectives on Lyonnaise cuisine, combining taste with storytelling.

Beyond its gastronomy, Lyon boasts cultural richness. Museums, galleries, and theaters provide artistic depth, while the Fourvière Hill offers panoramic views where the Rhône and Saône rivers converge in a shimmering tableau. Strolling along riverbanks, admiring illuminated bridges, or lingering in a sunlit café fosters a sense of place that is both lively and contemplative.

Whether savoring a perfect meal, discovering hidden passageways, or gazing across the rivers from Fourvière, Lyon’s allure is immediate and lasting. It is a city of flavor, history, and artistry, offering travelers an intimate and unforgettable introduction to the Rhône River’s rich cultural landscape.

Avignon, France — Papal History and Festive Spirit

Avignon, perched along the Rhône, is a city where history and festivity intertwine. Known for its Palais des Papes, once the residence of popes during the 14th century, the skyline is dominated by this Gothic masterpiece, which stands as a symbol of the city’s ecclesiastical past. Strolling through cobblestone streets, travelers encounter medieval architecture, hidden squares, and centuries-old façades that echo with stories of papal intrigue and Renaissance life.

The city comes alive during the holiday season. Its Christmas market transforms squares into sparkling centers of cheer, with stalls offering handcrafted ornaments, spiced treats, and regional specialties. Street performers entertain crowds, adding music and movement to the historic streets. A sunset walk along the Pont d’Avignon, immortalized in song, is an unforgettable experience, as the fading light casts golden reflections on the Rhône, illuminating both water and stone in warm hues.

Cultural exploration extends beyond the palatial and festive. Art galleries, quaint cafés, and patisseries line the streets, offering immersive encounters with Provençal life. Local cuisine, from tapenade to fresh river fish, can be sampled in intimate restaurants, enhancing the city’s sensory appeal.

Avignon’s charm lies in its duality: monumental history paired with vibrant modern life. Walking through its streets, listening to festive melodies, and soaking in river views, travelers experience a city that is at once grand, approachable, and endlessly captivating — a jewel of the Rhône that leaves a lasting impression on any journey.

Arles, France — Van Gogh’s Inspiration and Roman Heritage

Arles, a sun-kissed town in the heart of Provence, is where art, history, and everyday life blend seamlessly. Famous for inspiring Vincent van Gogh, the town exudes creative energy, inviting visitors to walk the streets that shaped some of his most celebrated works. Strolling past the Yellow House or pausing at Café de la Nuit, travelers can imagine Van Gogh capturing the vibrant hues of light and shadow that still color Arles today.

The town’s Roman legacy is equally striking. The Roman amphitheater, a remarkably preserved arena, evokes centuries of spectacles and gatherings, while local archaeological sites and ruins speak to Arles’ enduring significance as a Mediterranean hub. Daily markets bring the town to life, with vendors offering fresh produce, cheeses, and artisanal goods that embody Provençal culture. The scent of lavender, herbs, and baked delicacies fills the air, complementing the town’s visual charm.

Beyond its historical and artistic landmarks, Arles offers sensory immersion. Narrow streets invite wandering, cafés encourage lingering over coffee or pastis, and the nearby Rhône landscape provides natural beauty that extends the town’s appeal beyond its borders. Photography, sketching, and quiet reflection are natural here, as the interplay of light, color, and history fuels creativity and appreciation.

Arles is a place where time seems suspended. Every corner tells a story, whether of Roman spectacles, Van Gogh’s genius, or the rhythms of contemporary life. For travelers, it is a port that delights, inspires, and leaves a lasting connection to the culture, history, and artistic soul of the Rhône Valley.

Beaune: Burgundy’s Timeless Heartbeat of Wine and Heritage

Beaune is the soul of Burgundy — a small, graceful town where wine, history, and French art de vivre intertwine with irresistible charm. Walking through its medieval streets feels like drifting through a living museum of centuries-old stonework, colorful tiled roofs, and hidden courtyards warmed by golden light. At the center is the Hôtel-Dieu, the iconic 15th-century hospice whose patterned roof tiles have become a symbol of Burgundy itself. Inside, vaulted halls and ancient wards tell stories of charity, medicine, and monastic dedication.

But Beaune’s true heartbeat lies in its wine culture. Beneath the town runs a labyrinth of wine cellars, some dating back to the Middle Ages, where barrels rest quietly under soft candlelit arches. Tastings here reveal Burgundy’s legendary terroir — Pinot Noirs with delicate minerality, elegant Chardonnays shaped by limestone and centuries of craftsmanship. Strolling through the Marché de Beaune adds sensory delight: truffle-infused cheeses, fresh pastries, and sun-ripened produce.

Just outside town, vineyards roll across the Côte d’Or like gentle waves. Visitors can wander among them by foot, bicycle, or private tour, savoring the peaceful vistas. Beaune offers an immersion in authenticity — a place where tradition feels alive and every sip or stroll becomes a memory.

Chalon-sur-Saône: Gateway to Burgundy’s Quiet Elegance

Chalon-sur-Saône blends riverside tranquility with the artistry and legacy that define Burgundy. As the birthplace of photography pioneer Nicéphore Niépce, the town holds a deep appreciation for creativity and innovation. This spirit is reflected in its charming squares, cobblestone lanes, and the Musée Nicéphore Niépce, where early cameras and historic images bring the art of photography to life.

The old town, centered around Saint-Vincent Cathedral, offers a peaceful stroll through centuries of architecture. Cafés spill into the squares, where locals sip wine under the shade of old plane trees. The Saône River adds a serene rhythm, inviting travelers to wander along its scenic quays or pause to watch reflections dance across the water.

Chalon is also a culinary delight where Burgundy’s riches shine — regional dishes like coq au vin, escargots, and rich cheeses can be savored in traditional brasseries. Wine enthusiasts will appreciate its easy access to prestigious vineyards, making it an ideal starting point for excursions into Côte Chalonnaise and Côte de Beaune.

Friendly, graceful, and steeped in culture, Chalon-sur-Saône offers an intimate introduction to Burgundy — a place where life moves at a deliciously unhurried pace.

Vienne: A Roman Stage Along the Rhône

Vienne feels like a city built for stories. Once a thriving Roman settlement, it still wears its ancient grandeur proudly — from the towering Temple of Augustus and Livia to the remarkably preserved Roman Theater, which once seated 13,000 spectators. Walking through Vienne is like moving through layers of time: medieval lanes, Renaissance façades, and Roman stones coexist in a seamless tapestry.

The town’s hilltop Basilique Saint-Maurice and Mont Pipet viewpoint offer spectacular panoramas of the Rhône, its wide curves wrapping gently around the city. Travelers often linger in Vienne’s vibrant market — one of the largest in France — where local cheeses, fruits, spices, and fresh produce fill the air with irresistible aromas.

For culinary enthusiasts, Vienne is a delight. The town is home to one of France’s most celebrated gastronomic traditions, and nearby vineyards produce expressive Côte Rôtie and Condrieu wines that pair beautifully with regional specialties.

Vienne’s charm lies in its blend of history and modern vitality. Whether exploring its ancient monuments or sipping wine at a riverside café, visitors feel the rhythm of a city that has hosted emperors, monks, artists, and travelers for more than two millennia.

Tournon-sur-Rhône: Castles, Vineyards, and River Carved Beauty

Tournon-sur-Rhône is one of the Rhône Valley’s most atmospheric towns, wrapped in medieval character and flanked by terraced vineyards that climb steep granite hillsides. The moment your ship docks, you’re greeted by the sight of the Château de Tournon, a fortress-turned-museum overlooking the river — a dramatic reminder of the region’s deep history.

Across the Rhône lies Tain-l’Hermitage, and together they form one of the world’s great wine landscapes. The hillside vineyards of Hermitage rise majestically above the river, producing Syrah wines renowned for their power and elegance. A short walk across the footbridge offers access to boutiques, tasting rooms, and the celebrated Valrhona Cité du Chocolat, where travelers can indulge in gourmet chocolate experiences.

Tournon itself is perfect for exploring on foot. Narrow lanes wind through old stone buildings, past artisan shops, cafés, and quiet squares shaded by plane trees. Scenic pathways lead along the river, where cyclists and walkers share the fresh Rhône breeze.

Whether savoring Hermitage wine, sampling world-class chocolate, or absorbing the town’s medieval charm, Tournon-sur-Rhône captures the essence of the Rhône — rich, generous, and timeless.

Viviers: A Medieval Village Frozen in Time

Viviers feels like a preserved chapter from the Middle Ages — a quiet, atmospheric village perched on a rocky hillside overlooking the Rhône. Its cobblestone streets twist through a beautifully preserved old quarter where centuries-old houses, stone archways, and intimate courtyards reveal a town little changed by time.

At the heart of Viviers lies St. Vincent Cathedral, the smallest cathedral in France, yet one of its most evocative. Its Gothic nave, soft candlelight, and serene ambiance make it a profoundly moving place to visit. Climbing to the upper town rewards guests with panoramic views of the Rhône Valley, where rolling hills and vineyards stretch toward the horizon.

Viviers’ charm lies in its tranquility. Unlike larger cities, it invites slower exploration — lingering chats with local artisans, watching sunlight flicker through shuttered windows, or admiring its half-timbered houses. At night, lantern-lit tours often reveal hidden legends and stories passed through generations.

For those seeking an authentic, deeply historic village, Viviers offers a rare sense of intimacy. It’s a place where the past feels alive, and every lane seems to whisper a tale of centuries gone by. 

Marseilles: France’s Mediterranean Soul

Marseilles is a vibrant tapestry of cultures, flavors, and dramatic coastal landscapes — a city where the Mediterranean meets centuries of seafaring tradition. As France’s oldest city, it blends ancient Greek roots with modern energy, creating an atmosphere unlike anywhere else in the country.

The bustling Vieux-Port (Old Port) is the heart of Marseilles, filled with fishing boats, café terraces, and lively markets selling the catch of the day. From here, visitors can wind their way up to the iconic Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde, whose hilltop perch offers sweeping views over terracotta rooftops and the turquoise sea. The basilica’s golden statue watches over sailors and travelers alike.

Marseilles is also a culinary capital, famous for its flavorful bouillabaisse, rich with local fish and Provençal herbs. Neighborhoods like Le Panier — the city’s oldest district — charm visitors with pastel façades, steep stairways, street art, and artisan studios.

Just beyond the city lies the stunning Calanques National Park, where limestone cliffs plunge into crystalline coves perfect for hiking, boating, or swimming. Marseilles is bold, colorful, and endlessly compelling — the true pulse of the Mediterranean.

Nice: The Sunlit Elegance of the French Riviera

Nice is the crown jewel of the Côte d’Azur — a sunlit city where azure seas, pastel buildings, and palm-lined promenades create an effortless air of Riviera glamour. Arriving here feels like stepping into a postcard of perpetual summer.

The famous Promenade des Anglais stretches along the Baie des Anges, offering leisurely strolls with views of shimmering blues. In the old town, Vieux Nice, narrow lanes overflow with flower markets, Provençal spices, gelato shops, and pastel façades glowing in warm Mediterranean light. The Cours Saleya Market adds color and fragrance, displaying fresh produce, flowers, and local treats.

Culture lovers will appreciate Nice’s rich artistic heritage. The Matisse Museum, Chagall Museum, and the city’s elegant Belle Époque architecture reflect its long-standing role as a haven for artists and aristocrats. For panoramic vistas, a walk up Castle Hill reveals sweeping scenes of the Old Port, beach, and cityscape.

Dining in Nice is a delight — local specialties like socca (chickpea flatbread) and salade niçoise bring the region’s fresh flavors to life. Nice combines relaxation, beauty, and culture with quintessential Riviera elegance.

 

 

 

 

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